Cars made after 1994 are made with fuel injection systems. They replaced carburetors. If your mechanic starts talking about a carburetor for your 2006 Toyota Corolla, you have a problem.
Most car problems begin with a poor management of fluids. This is everything from gasoline to radiator fluid. Know how, where, and when to check your fluids. If the light is on, it's too late. When checking your fluids do it when the car has sat for at least an hour. Otherwise, removing a hot radiator cap will do more than burn your hand. When checking your oil, wipe the dipstick clean with a rag, reinsert it, then pull it out again. If the oil is below the fill line your oil is low. If it is below the add line, you have NOT been taking care of your car. Add oil immediately and go get an oil change. Make sure they change your oil filter. If your oil is dark or black, get an oil change.
The most obvious sign you need new brake pads is a squeaky sound. However, if you have a Jeep Grand Cherokee made no later than 2005, you will hear squeaking no matter what. Another sign you need new brake pads is brake dust on your wheels. If your wheels have a reddish brown or coppery colored dust on them, usually only on the front wheels, you have gone passed the point of squeaking and really need new brake pads now. Go longer than this stage and you will hear and feel grinding. Your brake pad replacement price just doubled. You are now grinding your rotors. Nine times out of ten your rotors can be resurfaced. But depending on how bad it is, it's safer just to replace them. If you suspect your mechanic is snowing you over, which happens the moment they see the brake dust, ask to see the rotors. If they can't show you or haven't even removed the tires or brake pads, leave.
When connecting the cars, make sure the car that's doing the charging (#1)is in the same class or higher than the car being charged (#2). Don't charge a Ford Expedition with a Dodge Neon. Use an F-150 or an Escalade for example. Turn off all power to car #1. Place both cars in park or neutral if standard. Turn on the heater or air conditioner of car #2. This protects your electrical system. Connect the red terminals first. Use the red jumper cable clamp on car #2 battery first, and then the red terminal on the good
battery in car #1. Next, connect the black cable on any unpainted metal surface on the engine bay of car #2. This will act as a ground. Connect the other end to the negative terminal on the good battery. Make a VISUAL inspection of the cables, making sure these are not loose in any way. Start the engine on car #1. Lightly step on the gas to increase RPM
to about 1,500. The alternator will be charging the battery
and giving enough voltage to charge the dead battery momentarily. Start car #2 engine. As soon as the engine starts, turn off the A/C or heater. Let both engines run for about five minutes, to give the dead battery enough charge. Disconnect the jumper cables starting with the black terminal on car #1, then the grounding cable on car #2. Then disconnect the red terminal on car #2 and then the red terminal on car #1. When in doubt, read the instructions on the bag the cables came in, assuming you still have it. If the battery sputters out shortly after, you need a new battery.
Always travel with a full sized spare in your car. Have one mounted if you can't have it in your car. There is nothing worse than being on a road trip or somewhere far from home with your kids and your dog in the car, and all you have to get you home is a donut or nothing at all. If you drive an SUV or a truck, a full size spare is CRUCIAL. Always test the jack that comes with your car, every car comes with one. Make sure it is the jack that was intended for that car. You don't want to find out in an emergency that you have a jack meant for a Mini but you drive a Suburban. Standard jacks, the ones that the manufacturer included, always come with a tire iron or a tool to remove the lugs (the bolts holding the tire on). Always place the jack close to the wheel under the actual frame of the car. If you aren't sure which place is safest, check your manual. Do not change a tire on a hill. Loosen the lugs on the tire. This might take some elbow grease. But don't remove them. Raise the car just high enough to lift the tire off of the ground. Remove the lugs, put them in your pocket or your bra. If you've ever seen A Christmas Story you will know why this is important. Remove the tire by pulling it towards you and rolling it away. This is a very easy and simple process. If it has become difficult, you're doing it wrong. The most difficult part is lifting the spare tire if it's large, keeping track of the lugs, and the exertion of removing them. Remember, righty tighty, lefty loosey. Put the new tire on, you will need to support the weight of the tire as you line it up and slide it on. Apply the lugs by hand, then tighten them with the tire tool. DON'T OVER TIGHTEN. Make sure the tire is flush against the disc behind it. You don't want it tilted in any way. Lower the car. Tighten the lugs as tight as they will go without stripping the lugs. When you get home, Leave your spare in place and buy a new tire to replace the spare.
There are two major causes to an overheating vehicle, radiator leak or a failing water pump. The radiator is always behind the grill of your car. If there is any moisture or green liquid on the ground at the front of your car. You have a radiator leak. Do NOT drive your car. Call a mechanic. If you heard a strange swishing sound, like rushing water, or the sound of pump running out of water, your water pump just quit. Fix it immediately or your fan belt will be next.
Ever stop at a red light and hear an infernal squealing coming from under the hood of the car idling next to you? That's the sound of a tension pulley going out. It holds the serpentine belt. When the tension pulley goes out, the belt is no longer aligned. You will hear a constant squeal whenever your car is running. The belt will eventually shred and break. This will lead to a host of problems no one can afford. If you hear this squeal, pull over and call a tow truck.
Always ask for your parts back. Don't just say that you want your parts back, write it on the estimate or any document you are asked to sign. If work is done on your vehicle and the parts are not given to you as requested, the work is free. Also, if a mechanic does any work on your car without asking you first or that is not included on the estimate, you are not responsible for it. They will threaten you or refuse to release your car. Simply call the police or contact the Bureau of Automotive Repairs. Unauthorized work, no matter how necessary they say it is, is still unauthorized. Know what the parts you request should look like. If they show you brake drums and your car has brake discs for the rear brakes, then they aren't giving you the parts. Keep the parts they give you as proof that your parts were not returned.
Know what is wrong with your car before it goes wrong. All Ford SUV's and trucks from 2000 to 2010 run the risk of blowing a spark plug. There is a kit for this issue provided to any mechanic looking to fix this problem. But if you don't know that this is an expected problem, you may spend more money in the long run. Why pay for a spark plug change in a car that is prone to blowing spark plugs in the first place? Solve the recall problem instead. The tune up is included. Do the tune up first, and you wind up paying for the two services separately.
Know what's covered under warranty. It's better to take your car to the dealer when you have a warranty. Get a diagnostic on the car so that you are aware of what's wrong with it or potentially wrong with it no less than 3 days before the warranty expires. This way, if there is a problem with your car, and a mechanic says you need a new this or that, you can show the diagnostic that says he's wrong. However, if he's right, he'll stand his ground. You may have an issue to take up with your dealer. Even though the warranty has expired, the problem existed before it ended. They have to make the repair for free.