Saturday, September 5, 2015

The Natural Hair Trojan Horse

The natural hair revolution has boosted the self confidence of millions of African-American women. There are less products on the shelves that portray European beauty and more products that portray a natural, ethnic beauty. Many black actors are finding they no longer need to wear a weave, wig or treat their hair with relaxers to book auditions. In fact, some like Viola Davis have been applauded for returning to their roots. But there are some myths that are persisting due to the booming natural hair revolution.

Myth
Natural hair is easier to style than relaxed hair.

Fact
It actually takes about the same amount of time to maintain natural 4c hair as it does if it were relaxed. After washing both natural and relaxed hair, the decision to blow dry is optional. Both require that moisturizers be applied almost immediately. But natural hair should be braided or twisted to prevent tangling and hair loss. Relaxed hair need only be wrapped. The time saved after a shampoo for relaxed hair is made up upon styling, as some form of heat is needed to style it. After natural hair has been braided or twisted one could wear that as their style or undo it in a matter of moments, and they are ready to go.

Myth
Natural hair products are cheaper.

Fact
Natural hair products are more expensive than products for chemically treated hair. This is especially true now that the natural hair revolution has become widespread. Natural products typically involve pure coconut and other oils which can be very expensive. Sulfate-free and other shampoos from companies like Shea Moisture, Carol's Daughter, Kinky Curly, and Mixed Chicks are twice the price as a bottle of Pantene or Suave for as little as a quarter of the amount. One can reduce this cost by using vinegar or other homemade hair care products.

Myth
If I go natural, my hair will be beautifully curled.

Fact
Unfortunately, this is what has caused the natural hair revolution to go into overdrive. People who are caught up in the good hair/bad hair stigma are jumping at the chance to appear to be mixed race or racially ambiguous. Having natural, curly hair would achieve this. But if you have 4c hair, your hair will not coil over the same as a person with 4a hair. No amount of anti-frizz or anti-shrinkage products will achieve this effect. Braiding is required for waves and twisting is required for curls. In some cases, perm rods are necessary.

Myth
People with natural hair don't wear fake hair.

Fact
This is one of the biggest myths to come about for natural hair. Most people you see with natural hair have worn, or are wearing some form of hair extensions. This is because of the awkward grow out phase. People see others with the shoulder length, trademark fro and take the plunge. But it takes time to achieve that level of hair growth. So out comes the Brazilian weave hair and half wigs.

Myth
Natural hair has finally made all black women equal.

Fact
Actually, there is just as big of a divide amongst black women now as there was in the 80's when the natural hair revolution was here last. Black men still go for the "light is right" black woman with the silkier curly hair over the darker skinned black woman with 4c hair. White Americans emulate mixed race women with silky, curly hair as well. The dark skinned black woman is however finding more acceptance in the workplace but she is also finding that she is often told her hair is messy while her light skinned or mixed race, fellow natural haired co-worker is being marveled at.

Myth
The natural hair revolution is putting Asian hair companies out of business.

Fact
We all know that the push to support black owned business has seen a backlash against Asian beauty supply store owners. After all, Koreans are the biggest suppliers of the world's hair extensions. Black Americans are willing to get loans to afford the skyrocketing costs of purchasing someone else's hair. So, some have come to reason that by going natural those stores are going out of business. This is false. Korean store owners aren't dumb. They didn't get rich selling weave hair. They got rich providing the black community whatever it is they demand. In the early 2000's BeyoncĂ© dyed the bottom half of her hair pink. Weave stores everywhere stocked extensions of the same style in mass quantities because everyone wanted it. When Mary J. Blige hit the scene with her trademark strawberry blond hair, the shelves were stocked with boxes of coordinating hair color. Go into a beauty supply store now and you will find afro kinky and Brazilian hair stocked to the ceiling. Not everyone is willing to cut off all of their relaxed hair to accomplish the natural look the natural way. Also, some women have caused so much damage to their natural hair that they can never go without extensions again. Which means, Asian beauty supply businesses will never lose money.

It is important to understand that going natural is not meant to be worn as a badge of honor. Women are judging each other based on who has the better curl definition or who's hair is nappier or silkier. Women are putting down women who chose to chemically treat their hair because the stereotype is that she is still trying to be white. People go natural for different reasons including, healthier lifestyle, finances, and social acceptance. Don't assume that every black woman with a natural prefers to be called "sistah" or is afrocentric. If you decide to go natural, be prepared to love and accept yourself for who you really are and not who others perceive.

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